Wonderful Waterford
The Waterford waterfront by night
In the latest in Senior Times’ series of free travel in Ireland, Lorna Hogg focusses on Co Waterford
Striking coastline, great beaches, castles, gardens, pretty little market towns and villages in rolling farmland, lush river valleys, plus walking, cycling and shopping Waterford city and county offer plenty of scope for visitors. Add in a range of accommodation from luxurious castles to cosy B&Bs, a range of excellent restaurants, and you have a short break for every taste..
Day 1.
Expressway Bus 4 takes just three hours for the Dublin/Waterford service. Stop off at Thomastown for lunch and some shopping on the Craft Trail. Then, continue by bus or take the short train journey on down to Waterford. Expressway No 5, also from Dublin, passes through Wicklow, New Ross and Enniscorthy. Expressway No 73 links the city with Athlone and Longford, No 40 links it with Tralee, Killarney and Cork, and No 55 links Waterford with Limerick, with Galway connections. You can also take the train from Limerick Junction.
Ireland’s oldest city, Waterford has a thousand years of history dating back to Viking days. Still a thriving port, it blends ancient and modern – city walls, cobbled back streets, towers, castles, pubs and cathedrals sit alongside the latest shopping and the a.
Waterford city is within easy reach of The Comeragh Mountains, and is just a short trip from beautiful Blackwater Valley, but there is plenty of see in city centre first. One of the most famous attractions is, of course, is The House of Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre, on The Mall, where you can take a tour of the factory and get up close and personal to the cutters and blowers of this world famous brand. Directly across the road from the new Crystal Centre is the magnificently restored 18th century Bishop’s Palace, home to the Waterford Museum of Treasures, surrounded by beautiful gardens designed by Diarmuid Gavin. A short stroll towards the quay will bring you to Reginald’s Tower, home to a major new Viking Exhibition, and which dates back to the twelfth century.
This iconic tower was named for the Dane who built it during an early conquest, and it is the oldest urban civic building in Ireland. Christ Church Cathedral has been at the city’s heart since the tenth century – the Vikings built Waterford’s first church on this site. The current eighteenth century cathedral is filled with Waterford history, and has regular concerts and recitals.
The Edmund Rice Heritage Centre tells the story of the Christian and Presentation Bothers. Happier in an organised tour? Jack Burtchaell’s Waterford City Walking Tours (on level ground) cover a millennium of history – in a mile of city.
Waterford is a good destination for Foodies –well, it is home of the blaa, a distinctive soft bun, as well as delicious Blackwater salmon. Aside from its many recognised and rated restaurants, Waterford has an annual Festival of Food in April. The region also has regular Farmer’s Markets - Waterford city’s Food and Craft market is on Saturday mornings. Top rated city centre restaurants include the atmospheric cellar style of La Boheme, and also Bodega. Check hotel restaurants as well. The Waterford Harvest Festival takes place in the city in September, when the mile long quay will close to traffic, as Waterford city hosts the largest food market in Ireland.
The city is noted for its festivals – next in line is the Tall Ships, (June 30 – July 3) when ships from all around the world will line the city centre quay. Next comes SPRAOI, a giant street festival of arts and music – all free, from July 30th – August 1st. The famous Waterford Festival of Light Opera celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2010. This year, re-branded as the Waterford International Music Festival, it offers a programme including local and choral music, at the Theatre Royal, from November 2nd to 13th.
Day 2
Time to take in some of the beautiful countryside and coast around Waterford city. A fifty minute trip on Express Bus 40 takes in Dungarvan, the bustling market town and medieval port. Take time to explore the local restaurants. Nude Food is noted for organic style dishes, The Tannery for its high quality – plus value, thanks to its Easy Evening Menu. Fishing port Dunmore East, at the mouth of Waterford Estuary, is just a short trip, so make time for some local food - The Spinnaker is a landmark.
Local bus operators cover several routs of interest to visitors. The Waterford and Suir Valley railway covers the route of the old Waterford to Dungarvan service. It is a pretty ride, through rolling countryside, with rich farmland and parkland. You can even get a glimpse of the famous Mount Congreve Gardens en route. During the summer months, Suirway Bus and Coach services offer a `no car, no problem’ solution, with all in bus connections for a railway trip.
Suirway Bus and Coach also offer a service from Waterford city to Dunmore East. One of the country’s most picturesque fishing ports and holiday village, it feature in the Tall Ships celebrations this summer – the event runs from 30th June to 3rd July. You can also travel to Passage East, with perhaps a side trip on the ferry across to Wexford.
Many of Waterford’s major and most beautiful attractions are, however, difficult to reach by public transport. Some, such as the internationally acclaimed Mount Congreve, are within taxi reach (Kilmeaden is about 8 miles from Waterford city) However, if you’re travelling in a group, it is well worth investing in a coach for some serious sightseeing. Lismore offers a Heritage Centre, shopping, and sightseeing, plus of course, the splendid Lismore Castle Gardens. It even has a couple of atmospheric hotels for overnight visits. Coach hire can also allow you to cover the spectacular UNESCO rated Copper Coast, or the popular Mount Melleray Abbey.
Day 3
Time for more city sightseeing, or a short trip to an inland market town, such as Kilmacthomas. You could also use the options to take a different route home. Try the train to Dublin, take a local bus to Wexford and then the Dublin train up the East Coast, or just return by a different bus route.
A visitor "must" stop: The Mediaval Doolans pub
Reginalds Tower and the quay in 1891
HOW TO GET THERE
Waterford Tourist Office, 41, The Quay, Waterford Tel. 051 875823
Official Waterford City Tourism website is www.discoverwaterfordcity.ie
www.southeasttourism.ie
www.discoverwaterfordcity.ie
www.passageferry.ie
FREE TRAVEL IN IRELAND
The All Ireland Free Travel Scheme allows people aged 66 and over to travel free on the island of Ireland. Those holding a Free Travel Pass issued by the Department of Social and Family Affairs should check with their local Social Welfare Office or ask at a Citizens Advice Centre.
More good news for Over 66s. Your overseas guests can now accompany you to see it all – for free. Golden Trekker Reservations, for overseas visitors, allow the Over 66s four days of Golden Trekker Tickets for free rail travel. Advance booking required
For details contact www.discoverireland.com, or here, at Failte Ireland centres.
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