A Motive For a ‘Dreamy’ Break..
With such evocative descriptions as ‘city of dreaming spires’, and the ‘watercolour tints’ enjoyed ‘by the soft breath of youth’, Oxford has been a must-see destination for centuries. It is also ideal for literary sleuths, as it remains unchanged over those centuries, and certainly ticks all the boxes. The world renowned centre of learning has picture postcard views, surrounding rivers, plenty of walks, and honey coloured stone colleges with pristine lawns, enticingly tucked away behind encircling walls. Add on its ancient chapels, superb architecture, long established traditions, and you can understand why Oxford has long attracted writers and film makers.
Oxford has been a centre of strategic importance since Saxon times, and the Carfax Tower stands on one important junction. There has long been some uneasiness between Oxford’s two sets of inhabitants - its `town’ and `gown,’ or locals and the students. Until recently, the `gown’ aspect of Oxford was the one to attract writers and film makers - Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited conjures up memories of the gilded youth of Sebastian and Charles, and C.S Lewis and Tolkein were also influenced by their time there. More recently, the books and television series `Morse’ concentrated on `town’ aspect. Yet set against the city’s beauty and history, the television series gave plenty of chance to see college lifestyles .
However, his eyesight failed, and in 1966, he left teaching, and moved to Oxford with his wife and children. He started to work with the Oxford College Local Examinations, and continued writing, winning several crime writing awards. Unsurprisingly, Inspector Morse developed some of Dexter’s own preferences – crosswords, ale and Wagner’s music. Dexter wrote thirteen Morse mysteries in all, plus some short stories. In 1987, the BBC started its series of 33 episodes of Morse, which ran until 2001. Fan should keep an eye out for Colin Dexter, who made cameo appearances in the series.
Start with the ancient Carfax Tower, on Oxford’s crossroads at the top of the High Street, and a natural meeting place for centuries. Climb it for a glimpse of the city’s famous `dreaming spires’, then take the first road to your left, into St. Aldates, to visit Christ Church, one of Oxford’s most beautiful and famous colleges, known to students as `The House’. Return to the High Street, and keep an eye open for Alfred St, home to The Bear. Dating from 1242, it is Oxford’s oldest pub. It can be seen in the `Death is Now They Neighbour’ episode in Morse. Don’t miss its famous collection of ties – and beware the low ceiling! Use the side streets to walk down Oriel Sq, making time to visit the college, and also Corpus Christi, used in filming for `The Last Enemy’ and `Infernal Serpent.’’
Back on High St., cross the road to walk up to The Turl, which leads to the smaller but pretty Exeter and Jesus Colleges, on the way to Market St. It’s a good chance to explore Oxford’s covered markets, feature in several novels.
Walk back down Market Street to the square which contains the famous and highly regarded Bodlian Libarary, and the Sheldonian Theatre. The latter was created as a public space in Oxford for meetings, and is used for graduations. The Sheldonian featured the Twilight of the Gods, one of the most atmospheric episodes of the television series. It featured a murder of a diva, during a procession, by shots from a sniper on high. Nearby is Brasenose, dating from 1509. It was used in the television series as Lonsdale College, and featured in Riddle of the Third Mile and also Death Is Now They Neighbour. If you make for New College Lane, and walk under the Bridge of Sighs, (a reproduction of the Venice original), you will come across a sign for The Turf, one of Oxford’s oldest and most loved pubs – and finding it is half the fun.
At this stage, it could be time for a brief spell on the river. You can hire a punt, or for around £25, just sit back and let someone else do the work! Alternatively, make for one of the spots featured in the hugely popular 1980s television series, Brideshead Revisited – the Botanic Garden. Try another tradition, tea at the Grand Café, unchanged and as stylish and atmospheric as it was a century ago.
MORE INFORMATION
Getting about in Oxford is best done on foot, by bike, by bus or by taxi. Car parking is notoriously difficult, though possible if you are determined, but a good alternative is to use one of the city's Park and Ride facilities. Buses from these into town (as well as along the other major bus routes) are frequent and run quite late.
