``I never tire of this view,’’ she said, turning back to the car. He nodded again, disingenuously. To him, it wasn’t a view at all. It was a crime scene waiting to happen.’’ That may have been the case for the popular fictional detective Rebus, but it neatly sums up what a superb literary location the this beautiful city provides, as Ian Rankin’s cranky, dishevelled and cynical detective delves into the dark side of the city’s elegance and order. However, the good news for readers is that Rebus’s Edinburgh can be easily walked in a couple of days. So, why not combine sightseeing and sleuthing with a well established literary trail, and some of the city’s superb food, and maybe a few drams?

 

Ian Rankin was born in 1960, in Fife, and attended university in Edinburgh. Always interested in crime writing, he was undoubtedly influenced by the historical Old Town. Originally overcrowded, filthy (hence the nickname `Auld Reekie’ and decimated by plague and poverty, its ancient buildings, closes and wynds are especially atmospheric on dark, misty winter nights. He was influenced by local greats, such as Robert Louis Stevenson, whose novels, especially `Dr. Jekyll and Mr Hyde’, reflected the contrasts in the city. James Hogg, noted for `Confessions of a Justified Sinner’ also portrayed the struggle between good and evil.

 

That great contemporary literary sleuth, Inspector Morse, was named after a code. So, Rebus needed his moniker, and is named after a puzzle. To some extent, it sums up the detective himself. Rankin’s first novel, `Knots and Crosses’, in 1987, deals with the abduction and murder of two young girls, and introduced the middle aged, divorced detective, with a penetrating eye for what went on beneath the surface. One of the strengths of the ten Rebus novels, many of which have been televised, is their contemporary relevance. Rankin was careful to match not only police practice, but also the events of the day, from the G8 Summit, to devolution and the creation of the Edinburgh Parliament.

 

There are excellent organised tours, but you can easily create your own. Start at the Castle, with its superb views and take in the ancient closes, or courtyards, along the Royal Mile. Opposite St. Giles Cathedral, note The Real Mary King’s Close (it’s well worth the tour) Its sinister looking meat hook was one of the inspirations for `Mortal Causes,’ in which a gruesome corpse is discovered in an old Close. At South Bridge, it’s time to descend to Cowgate, long a notorious part of the city, from the days of Burke and Hare, the notorious body-snatchers.

 

Don’t miss the Flodden Wall, visible along Drummond and Pleasance Streets. It is named for the Battle in the 1600s, and was built to keep the English out of the old town. Cowgate, named originally for a leafy cattle track running alongside the city, is now a narrow, cobbled and cavernous especially atmospheric street. Find the cosy Royal Oak pub, in Infirmary Street, a favourite pub for both Rebus and Rankin. It may be noted for its live music, but its cellars are said to be haunted, unsurprising as it is near to the Old City Morgue, and body snatchers territory.

 

Take a look at the Old Royal High School, in the area called the Surgeon’s Yard, where the body snatchers sold their bounty, to one of the lecturers at the prestigious Medical School. Previous to the 1830, it was difficult to acquire corpses for vital dissection practice in the Medical School. Hence, body snatchers stole freshly buried corpses from graveyards, and sold them. The most infamous body snatchers were Irishmen Burke and Hare in the 1820s. However, they moved from grave robbing, to `assisted death’ and finally murder. In a touch of poetic justice, Burke’s own body, after hanging was donated for dissection. Take time to note the Sheriff’s Court in Chambers St. and then return to The Royal Mile, walking down to the Scottish Parliament complex. Queensberry House, now a part of the Parliament, was the site for a fictional murder of a Scottish MP in `Set In Darkness.’ It is reputed to haunted by a servant, who was supposedly roasted on a spit. If there is time, take a bus down to St. Leonard’s Police Station, where Rebus worked, and which features in `Resurrection Men’.

 

After that, you have a choice. Walk round by the Palace of Holyrood House, the Queen’s official Scottish residence, and the site of a real murder, to look up at Arthur’s Seat. It is the site of mysterious tiny coffined dolls, which were found on the hill in the 1820s, and which feature in `The Falls’ You can now see them in the National Museum. Alternately, you could get a bus down to the Marchmont area, popular with students, to see Ardent Street, once home to Ian Rankin, and also to Rebus.

 

Next day, it’s on to the elegant and serene eighteenth and nineteenth century squares and crescents of New Town. The Oxford Bar, in Queen St. is a good start. It is a traditional pub, just tucked in off the elegant streets filled with shops and restaurants, of New Town, perfect for a sleuth like Rebus.

 

Nearby Charlotte Square leads on to beautiful residential areas of the city, filled with leafy crescents and period houses. Dedicated fans might want to take a bus, or walk up to Fettes Avenue, home to Police Headquarters, and also where the famous Fettes School can be found, with its superb city views. and which is also home to Police Headquarters.

Watching the daily gun fired from the Castle…

 

Spending an evening walking down The Royal Mile, exploring the Closes and Wynds. The Literary Museum is set in a perfect (albeit sanitised) example, helping you get a sense of Auld Reekie, an ancient names for the city.

 

Taking an evening tour. Edinburgh has enough apparitions, (don’t miss The Vaults!) to keep the most avid ghost buster happy, if scared, and has Ghost Tours do it justice. The City of the Dead and Haunted Graveyard Tour are excellent. The latter includes the potential to experience the infamous Mackenzie Poltergeist.

 

Climbing either Calton Hill (easier) or Arthur’s seat for spectacular views.

 

Visiting a city graveyard. The graves are virtual tombs – and when you learn about the body snatchers, you’ll understand why grieving relatives often stood guard until the body decomposed beyond any use for them. Keep an eye out for the Greyfriars Bobby statue, dedicated to the little dog who guarded his master’s grave in Greyfriars Kirkyard.

 

Seeing the contrasts in old city life, by visiting the elegant Georgian House, as well as The Real Mary King’s Close, as well as Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood house Palace. The People’s Museum offers is another (free) glimpse into old city life.

 

Walking down Queensferry Road from New Town to Dean Bridge, and drop down to the Water of Leith Walk, a leafy riverside paradise, which affords glimpses of the city from another perspective, plus plenty of wildlife.

 

FACT BOX

www.visitscotland/surprise

www.rebustours.com

www.ianrankin.net

www.royalcollection.org.uk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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