AN EPICURE IN EDINBURGH
The celebrated military tattoo (Photograph courtesy Scottish Viewpoint)
Second only to London as the most popular city in the UK, Edinburgh has more than enough to pack into a long weekend. The city is steeped in history and fabulous architecture. Most of Edinburgh’s main sights are along the Old Town’s Royal Mile, which runs from the Castle to Holyrood Palace, the Queen´s official residence in Scotland.
Edinburgh’s most recognisable landmark, is the Castle, which sits on a dramatic crag at the top of the Royal Mile, and offers fantastic views of the city. The castle needs at least half a day to take in anywhere near what it has to offer. Attractions include the Scottish Crown Jewels, which were locked away in the Castle in 1707, when the Act of Union declared that they had no role to play. They include the Crown Jewels, or Honours of Scotland (its crown jewels), the Stone of Scone, where its kings were crowned, and the famous cannon, Mons Meg. Its oldest parts date from the 12th century.
A few metres from the castle, is the Scotch Whisky Experiencen absolute must for any whisky lover, and takes the visitor on a 45 minute tour, starting with a whirling, bubbling barrel ride through a replica distillery, as you become part of the wisky making process.The tour includes a presentation of the country´s main whisky- producing regions, aided by a colour coded scratch- n- sniff card, and ends with a dram of whisky :The exhibition also houses the largest collection of Scotch whiskies in the world.
Along the Royal Mile you’ll find Gladstone´s Land, Completed in 1620. The building is maintained by the National Trust for Scotland, and is a typical example of an Old Town tenement.Jhon Knox , the founder of the Presbyterian Church, is bizarrely, buried under space in the car park!.It lies adjacent to the imposing St Giles´Cathedral. As well as a large "23", there is also a small, blank brass plaque, marking the spot. Also buried close by at Canongate Kirk, is the famous economist Adam Smith .
Running between the Royal Mile and 18th-century New Town, are the Princes Street Gardens. Located on the site of the old North Loch, which was drained in 1759, the gardens were created in the 1820s. Up till then, the Loch, or the Nor Loch as it was known, was a significant health hazard, having taken the sewage from the Old Town for many years. This could account for the remarkably lush greenness of the park!
Whilst in Edinburgh, we stayed at the Apex Waterloo Place, which is situated at the East End of Princes Street. The building was refurbished in 2009, having initially opened, as the first large scale hotel to be built in Edinburgh, way back in 1819.
The imposing Grade II listed front on Waterloo place, belies its sleek, designer accommodations, with luxurious bedrooms and bathrooms, contemporary luxury, complimentary WiFi, and movies on demand. Guests also have use of the pool, sauna, steam room and a fully equipped gym. Apex Waterloo Place also boasts some of the most helpful and polite staff I have come across in a very long time. Waterloo Place is one of four Apex hotels in Edinburgh.
Eating for Ireland in Scotland
Whilst in Edinburgh, we certainly ate well. Scotland boasts 15 Michelin stars, five of which are in Edinburgh. The International Culinary Tourism Association, in its first ever worldwide study, declared Scotland ‘one of the most unique, memorable and interesting’ places for food and drink.
Our first meal was in a real Edinburgh landmark, celebrated for thirty years. The Witchery, situated next to Edinburgh Castle, is a treat of a restaurant, described by Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber, as 'the prettiest restaurant ever’. It has also long been a favourite of the remaining half of the two fat ladies, Clarissa Dickson-Wright. We managed to get a table in the candle- lit ‘Secret Garden’.
After two delicious starters of scallops and dressed crab, I and my wife decided we would push the boat out, and opted to share a Beef Wellington, which, at £78, did at first seem rather excessive, but turned out to be well worth it. The beef was encased in beautifully flaky pastry, cooked medium-rare, and was melt-in-the-mouth tender. The dish came with sides of perfectly seasoned garlic mashed potato, and green beans with a Madeira jus, to finish it all off. As you would expect, all of the Witchery’s meat is locally sourced; on this occasion, the beef came from renowned East Lothian butcher, John Gilmour. I had run out of space, but my wife convinced me to share the passion fruit and mascarpone trifle, which came with a pistachio biscotti. The food was faultless, and the service at The Witchery was just as you’d expect of a restaurant of its standing: discreet, friendly, and helpful.
That evening after such an indulgent lunch, we decided that we would give the hotel’s restaurant a try. All too often, otherwise good hotels are let down by poor food, but we found that was certainly not the case at Apex Waterloo Place. Situated at the front of the hotel, Elliots’ benefits from huge Georgian windows, which run the entire length of the restaurant, bathing the room in floods of light.
I know its ridiculous, but I always feel let down, if I don’t have red meat when I eat out! To compensate for my already excessive intake of beef, my wife insisted that I avoid meat. The waiter recommended a lighter dish of sea bass, which came with braised fennel, shellfish bisque and horseradish foam. The sea bass was perfectly cooked, with velvety flesh and a crispy skin, which married well with the braised fennel - I really should eat more fish! My wife opted for the loin of venison, which was served pink with creamed parsnips and curly kale.
On Saturday afternoon, after an amazing breakfast at the hotel, we decided have a light lunch, and went along to the Fruitmarket Gallery on Market Street, which has a fantastic café. On offer, are daily specials of curries and tarts, as well as imaginatively filled wraps and rolls. All very fresh, and all very reasonably priced. I went for a freshly made roll, packed with slow cooked lamb with red peppers and an aubergine compote, which I paired with a chilled bottle of Black Isle Brewery BC Blonde larger. The other half went for a very generous plate of nachos, with lots of creamy Guacamole and minced beef. Also on offer were a mouth-watering selection of freshly baked cakes and tarts, which I managed to resist.
That evening, we visited Angels with Bagpipes, which opened in July 2010, and is the latest offering from the family that gave Edinburgh the Valvona & Crolla delicatessen.
AWB, as it known locally, offers a modern Scottish menu, but with a strong Italian influence, with dishes such as (my choice) pan fried sea bream with handpicked crab ravioli. My bream sat on a bed of creamed leeks, and was well cooked and perfectly presented. My partner went for the roast rump of Rosshire lamb, which came with pancetta cabbage and white beans.
More information
Scotland’s Year of Food & Drink runs from May 2010 until May 2011
For more information and to plan your break
Scotland,visit www.visitscotland.com/whiteinvite
Apex Waterloo Hotel www.apexhotels.co.uk
The Witchery www.thewitchery.com
The Fruitmarket Gallery http://fruitmarket.co.uk/cafe/
Angels with Bagpipes www.angelswithbagpipes.co.uk
VisitScotland, Ocean Point One, 94 Ocean Drive, Edinburgh EH6 6JH
Tfn: +44(0)131 472 2222 ,+44(0)131 472 2009
email: gaynyr.dickson@visitscotland.com
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin and Cork to Edinburgh.
Ryanair flies from Dublin to Edinburgh.
Also check out package deals with your local travel agent.
